Nature-The News to Watch

Anyone who knows me enough to talk to me knows I’ve been obnoxiously in love with my garden over the last two years. “What have you been doing lately?” followed by “Let me tell you about my garden.” Maybe this is because I’ve always wanted to be the kind of person who raised and preserved her own food like my parents had or my friend Kim who makes it look easy. But it’s hard work so I’ve failed gardening miserably in the past, ambitiously planting but not keeping up with the weeds. It has taken me years to construct a system that works for me. One that doesn’t overwhelm me when crabgrass takes over. I’ve landed on a series of raised beds that I can tackle one at a time. Flowers here, vegetables there. Some perennials, some annuals. An aesthetically pleasing array, and, oh, the birds! My Merlin Bird Identifier registers 10-15 birds’ songs every morning. We have regular families of Mockingbirds, Cardinals, Redwing Blackbirds, Doves, Indigo Buntings, Flickers, Warblers, Finches, Wrens, Robins, and of course Crows and more. You name it, ours is rich with variety too many to name properly. I’ve even seen a Boston Oriole and a Yellow Billed Cuckoo!  Working with the earth and nature spirits has been my saving grace. Something I can put my hard work and love into and reap the benefits. People will disappoint. Nature rarely does.

After building the raised beds, we hung cattle panel fencing around the garden with gates on three sides. I was so proud of my design I wanted to decorate it with more than flowers. I attached metal art panels on each of the gates and placed a gazing ball in the middle of my herbs, I hung a small metal birdhouse in the shape of an owl’s head with a small round opening for a mouth. A cruel joke but so very cute. From the top of its head was a dainty little chain and hook so I hooked this over a nail at the corner gatepost so I could see it from the house. I truly thought of this little owl as ornamental and not as a real bird house at all, or else I would have attached it with more vigor. Yet, all summer I have enjoyed watching a pair of Eastern Bluebirds return to this box time and again, climbing in and out of the owl’s mouth with dried grass from our compost or food for their babies. The box is eye level so I can sneak a peak each time I enter the garden.

From my usual spot on the back porch where I sit in the mornings with tea and a journal, or in the gloaming of day’s end, the garden with its little family of bluebirds is in my natural gaze. Behind them, a stand of cosmos. Beside me, a pair of binoculars. From my seat to the garden gate is approximately 50 feet. There is a boxelder tree between us that gives shade to the yard and holds a hammock. The garden gets full morning sun and then the tree protects that little metal birdhouse on the corner from getting too hot in the late afternoon. The first time I saw the birds furnishing their nest, I was a child again, only now I didn’t have to tiptoe or have my dad hold me up to see inside. Before long I was counting eggs, waiting for them to hatch. I watched each day as the couple took turns being in the box or keeping watch on the fence adjacent to it. Once I saw Papa fight off a larger bird that came too close. One evening when Mama and Papa bird must have been on a date or on a run to the grocery, I absentmindedly went to work in the garden without peaking at our babies and they squawked at me with their mouths wide open. If I’d had a worm, freshly chewed, I’d have dropped it in their eager beaks for sure. I felt like their nanny. I anticipated seeing them fledge any day and watched them closely so I could monitor my dogs’ activities and keep the little bundles of joy safe as they shored up their confidence. But the next afternoon, they were gone.

My first thought was not the grave one. Had they fledged during the night? Had I missed the flight while I was at work?  Were my bluebirds so gifted at flying that they didn’t need practice?  They were perfect, after all. Of course, I did land on the idea that something terrible had happened, after I went inside my garden fence to find a smattering of downy feathers peppering my beans.

The parents wasted no time cleaning out the box. Before long they were remodeling with new tufts of straw. I admired their tenacity. Maybe that’s how they grieve. I remember keeping myself busy when experiencing my own empty nest for the first time.  And this gardening surge came along at a time when I needed the earth’s grounding and something to look forward to. Again, I watched their progress, counted their eggs and waited. In the meantime, I googled natural enemies and predators of the eastern bluebird. I found all kinds of ideas for protecting the box from predators.

We live in a healthy ecosystem on our farm by the river. We readily hear and see hawks, owls. We even had an eagle land in our yard once, but he was eating a groundhog. Too big for that little birdhouse. Rabbits are everywhere this year. I imagine that’s keeping the pack of coyotes happy who we mostly hear at night, down by the river. We watch parades of deer and turkey daily. We occasionally smell a skunk who’s perfume wafts in an open window at night and signals the dogs to bark. The peepers in the barn lot pond are deafening at times, especially if it’s going to rain. When I run the soaker hose in the tomatoes, I almost always see a fat bullfrog enjoying the puddles left from a leaky faucet.

I know there is death on the farm, I’ve witnessed it. Coyotes having Thanksgiving Turkey, Bobcats catching rabbits. Mockingbirds stalking and desecrating Luna Moths—which  I find especially egregious. Sometimes the beauty and wonder of nature is so brutal it can break your heart wide open. What I haven’t mentioned is obvious. Google says the snake is #1 on the list of suspects. All of the friends to whom I’ve mentioned my bluebirds say, “Snake.” I say “I don’t think so.” Here’s why: 

  1. That smattering of feathers left behind. Another bird or a racoon would leave feathers behind but maybe a snake would swallow whole?
  2. We mow about an acre all the way around our house and garden. We and/or the dogs are actively in the yard every day; claiming our territory.
  3. The bullfrogs haven’t been snatched yet.
  4. Most Important** and this is the kicker:  I made a pact with their leader, a 6-plus foot black rat snake that I found on my porch one night (that’s another story) just after I moved in. I told her we had 140 acres here and if she would spread the word among her kind that I live in the house and the mowed part of the yard, they could choose their territories over the rest of the farm. The house had been sitting empty a few months. Maybe she had been delegated to check out the new neighbor. I requested she take the barn lot closest to the house to keep the poisonous snakes farther away. A rumor I’d heard but she said nothing, although she did as I’d suggested. She already understood the benefits of that location. I leave them alone. They leave me alone. We’re all happy.

     This has been a good partnership for 12 years now. We sometimes see a random snake in a field, near the barn or on the road but for the most part not close enough to the house to have a reminder talk with them. I’ve only broken my end of the bargain once, last year, when I wanted an old wagon wheel for my herb garden. It was lying in a pile of antique farm equipment I call “the boneyard”. Several wheels and other pieces of antique mule driven farm equipment had been abandoned in the barn lot and overgrown in upstart trees, shrubs and tangles of honeysuckle since my dad traded his mules for a tractor in the early 70’s.  It looks like where the 19th century went to die. I’ve seen my snake friend and her family there many times, on my walks. It’s the perfect location between a barn full of mice and a pond for frogs and drinking water. I knew I’d have to breech my contract with her but I hoped to be in and out without notice. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still scared of snakes. I don’t want to see one, and especially not be close enough to touch it, although I will give a snake a good talking to if I do see it. I’ve always known she was there and I’ve left her alone. I asked my companion to help me recover the easiest wheel I’d spotted and we donned our knee-high boots and work gloves and hiked over. As he pulled and cut and sawed through tough vines, I talked to her and apologized for coming into her home. I hoped she would forgive me. Turns out, she was wrapped around the very wheel we were pulling on. She disappeared quickly into the brush and we both jumped. I continued apologizing, profusely. I looked like a child hopping on one foot and then another while flicking my hands to shoo her away. I wondered then about payback but soon forgot as the spokes of the wagon wheel—lying flat on the ground—made a great dividing frame for my sage, rosemary, thyme and oregano.  

My little bluebirds continued to teach me about persistence, making 2 more nests in a row. Again, I watched, counted, waited. Nothing. No more feathers were found but neither did I witness hatchlings learning to fly. The evidence was mounting but I hoped and decided that without seeing feathers, I’d simply missed their flights while at work. Three times! I was happy and surprised when the birds came back for a fourth time, cleaning, re-stocking, preparing.

            A few days ago, I went out to enjoy the sounds of morning bird frenzy, as usual to collect a few minutes on a cool porch before the heat set in. Our days have been scorchers lately. To my surprise, dangling from the lowest tree limb of my backyard box elder, within ten feet and direct eyeshot of the owl’s open mouth, was the shed skin of a snake, about 3 feet long! Too bad the owl isn’t real. The skin did not belong to my friend the reptilian Queen, who I’d put in charge, because she is much longer than this interloper. One of her not so loyal subjects had snuck into forbidden territory!  

            As I sat, contemplating how to renegotiate peace talks, my partner told me he’d found a baby copperhead enjoying the heat of the compost pile about a month back. Although he’d killed the one he’d found I realized chaos had ensued without my knowledge!

            “A baby?” I asked, “Only one?  Are you sure there weren’t more?” Youngsters can go rogue without yet knowing the unwritten rules of their elders. That’s understandable. But as every old person says, this younger generation has a different set of values.  Leaving the skin in both my view and that of the birdhouse, is a blatant show of disrespect. Also, I was aware this was supposed to be the year of the cicada invasion. Although our region hasn’t been the hardest hit, for months now, Rosie and Willow—otherwise known as dog patrol or affectionately “the girls”—have been staying out late to dig for beetles or cicadas or whatever other little crunchy larvae might be there. I’d read an article about snakes gathering beneath oak trees at night to eat the emerging cicadas and I hoped my girls were abating that possibility.

            I wasn’t sure if Queen Rat Snake was dead, if there had been a coup for leadership, or perhaps she felt I owed her one after my breech into her territory last year. Maybe she decided staying out of my yard in a cicada year was too much for me to ask.

            I went back to writing in my journal, listening to the usual morning rush of cardinals, jays and mockingbirds as they come into the garden for breakfast when I heard a flush of excitement. The bluebirds were back. They had spotted the skin and were sounding all the alarms. Mama was flapping her wings hard, hovering in front of the scaly replica, and if I had to guess cursing him mightily. I hoped she didn’t have a heart attack. I could almost feel how the realization hit her. Grieving her babies while finally getting closure for where they went. This brought Papa. They flew above it, below it, hovered in front of it, flapping their wings and yelling as if to scare it away. It didn’t budge, of course, except for wavering in the wind. The birds called in the cavalry and here came the flickers and mockingbirds, a larger line of defense. They too used their best scare tactics and sounded alarms which pulled in the officers—cardinals and jays. With all the sirens going off, it was the only show to watch, even the dogs were captivated. We were the rubberneckers at the scene of a crime; all traffic stopped. It seemed the teams had forgotten their colors and all acted as one unit to rid the area of this menace. They did all share the same feeders, after all. When the decomposing skin did not respond to their fury, except to sway with the breeze, they finally lost interest and gave it up for dead.

The skin still hangs as a reminder. My hammock chair also hangs in that tree. It’s the only tree I’ve got whose limbs are hammock or swing friendly. I’m not sure how long it will take me to sit there again, unsure what might be overhead. I know the bluebirds have not returned to their box. As with all trauma, it’s gonna take time. Well played Queen. I won’t be taking you for granted again.

A Mountain of Faith

I have always felt that each woman needs at least 7 other women in their lives who will listen, advise, hold them up, light the way. This is the first in a line of essays where I honor the strong women who have provided a light for my path, be it one moment of for years. I met Edna only once, but she made such an impression…

A vision in dark brown cotton from head to toe smiled from across the freshly swept yard. Her homemade dress was buttoned up to the neck and reached all the way down to her ankles.  She wore a brown sweater.  A matching brown bonnet covered her head.  Her boots were supportive of mountain walking.  It was evident that everyone here revered Edna as a matriarch.  She was bombarded with a flood of grandchildren, nieces, nephews and neighbors rushing up to give her a hug.   Once a year, near her birthday, people stop by to pay their respects.  Bearing food and musical instruments, they have come to stay the day.  I accompanied my friend Barb for what she called, “walking up the holler a-ways to a singin.”

I knew the minute I met Edna she was something special. She was surrounded by an energy that was evident to me. I felt it. I don’t read auras, but if I did hers would be bright. After a bit of chit chat with my friend Barb about how she’d been, Edna took my hand. A pool of water formed in her eyes and she said, “I know you by your touch.  Praise Jesus.  I can feel Him in you.”  She didn’t let go of my hand for some time and pulled me around the yard introducing me to her family, being as though I’d never been there before. Her brother Joe, seemingly well known in the bluegrass music crowd, was entertaining a gathering on the porch of a log cabin. She lived out of the far reaches of electricity or indoor plumbing, off the grid you might say, but had all the amenities needed for a strong healthy life.  

She wanted to show me things, like the treadmill her son had made.  A horse walking the treadmill turned a long pole which was attached to the handle of an ice cream freezer.  “You can churn with this or anything,” she said.  “Isn’t it great?”  She was proud of her life and proud of her children. 

“How many children do you have?” I asked.

“Seven. They’re all real smart about this mountain and can do anything it takes to live.  I taught them that. Respect the mountain and it respects you, gives you a good life.”  Then she leaned in, “But, they ain’t had no education.  I wouldn’t let’em go,” she whispered.

“They do have an education, though, about life,” I said.  She smiled.

“You’re right,” Edna said.  “God told me to come up on this mountain and live and raise my kids and He would provide what we needed, so I did.  I take care of His Mountain and He takes care of me. I’m the only one knows how to keep this place clean.” 

She told me of getting married and moving north to Ohio as part of the out migration looking for jobs. “I had no business being up there,” she said.  “It made me sick.”  Her words echoed feelings I’d heard before, being a southern girl and all.  “The doctors said I had cancer,” she continued.  “They gave me three months to live, but God told me to get back to the mountains and I’d be okay.  That was fifty years ago.”  Her faith was unshakable. Being in her presence brought me a sense of peace.

She and her family are squatters on wild mountain property. She says, “You can live on it, but you can’t own it,” and “The less the government knows about you, the better.”  She doesn’t believe in deeds or government assistance. 

“How many grandchildren?” I asked.

“Honey, I think its twenty-two if they ain’t slipped no more in on me since I last counted.  They’re spread all over.  Most of them will be here today, though.  I even have some in-laws coming in from Ohio.  That should be fun.  They don’t know why I like to live up here.  They’re town people. I always like to show’em my fancy outhouse.”

A young man walked up with a big smile on his face and hugged Edna. 

“Hey, Granny, how are you?” he said.  He wore a black AC/DC shirt and tight straight legged black pants, and his dyed blue/black hair hung over part of his face.  His ears were pierced. 

“I guess you heard I fell,” she said.  “I broke a rib, punctured my lung.”  She held her side to show him where it hurt.

“I heard that,” he said.  His arms wrapped around her in a protective and loving hug.  “I hope you learned a lesson from that, wandering around up here all by yourself.”

“Honey, the lesson ain’t for me.  God lets me be a lesson to others.  I prayed real hard for God to get me out of that ditch.  He commenced to healing me and brought me home.  I’m almost as good as new.  The lesson’s for you.  It’s about faith.”  He laughed and kissed her on the cheek then moved on to talk to his cousins.  Edna didn’t judge him or scold him or any of the others.  She accepted them and loved them and they loved her.

“Do you ever leave the holler?” I said.

“Oh, yes, honey, I go up on the mountain and over to the cave, and sometimes I go over to another holler where my girls live.  I travel all over these hills.  I have two or three places in different hollers where I sleep.” It wasn’t exactly what I meant, but I got my answer.

The log cabin her son had built with hand hewn logs was plainly elegant with a full wrap around porch.  It was placed in a wide clearing in the deep woods near the creek bed road we had foot traveled earlier. He had one room dedicated to the food he canned and preserved from his own garden, enough to last all year.  A Lincoln style wood plank fence enclosed pastures of horses; some were being ridden by the grand-children.  A hay wagon in the yard became a table for all the food being brought in by the arm-loads.                         The vivid greens of the grass, trees and hills reminded me of a lush spring though it was near the end of summer. Not the hot browned look of our burned-up city lawns looking for relief. The creek we had followed sang to us as water flowed over rounded rocks. With no unsightly electric wires, cell-phone towers or satellite dishes it was easy to transport ourselves into another century.

My grandparents were dead before I was born, though I experienced summers on the family farm without utilities. Playing at the springhouse, catching rain-water in a barrel and decorating an outdoor toilet made me appreciate what it takes to live. I am grateful I was able to connect to my grandparents’ way of life.   

“So, you don’t live here with your son?”

“No, honey, I have my own place, several places really.”

“Tell me about the cave,” I said.

“There’s a cave with a spring in it.  That’s where we used to do our laundry.  I make a bed in there with a sleeping bag.  Sometimes I stay there two or three days.”

“What do you do there, while you’re waiting on your laundry to dry?” I asked.

“I pray.”  She pointed to an attractive woman, mid-thirties, with long, loose blond curls hanging over her shoulder.  She wore a red blouse and dress pants.  “When that young’un there was little enough to fit in the sleeping bag with me, we both went up there and stayed.  I came out one time and found snow about yay deep.”  She put her hands about twelve inches apart.  “I’m real lucky my kids let me do what I want.”

“How old are you, Edna?” I asked.

“I’ll be seventy-nine, August the ninth.”

“Do they worry about you a lot?”

“Sometimes I have to wait till they’re all gone if I want to climb on the roof or something.  They fuss about that.  They know how to find me, though, if I ain’t home.  I’m usually at the cave.  But that cabin on the mountain is where God wants me most of the time. It’s a place we used to have services.  People from all over these hills came up there to sing and pray.” Edna had a yard full of guests, easily over a hundred, many of whom had transported themselves into her holler by horse or foot so it wasn’t hard to imagine she was telling the truth.  “One time, I was worried about food and God told me he’d provide me all the food I wanted.  Don’t you know, swarms of bees moved into that cabin with me and stayed up in the ceiling between the cardboard and the tin.  I used cardboard you know, like people do to insulate the inside of the cabin.  Some stopped coming up there cause they were scared of the bees but they didn’t bother me none so I left’em alone and before long I had the prettiest honey combs you ever did see.  That honey tasted sweet, like the butter had already been added.  People came then I reckon cause they wanted my honey.” She laughed at the memory. “That’s how God provides for me.”  We meandered around the yard arm in arm looking at the handiwork of God and Edna’s children. The whole scene was like a memory I’d forgotten to have. I wanted to hold it close, study it so it wouldn’t slip away. 

“Do you have any preachers in your family?”  I don’t know why I asked that but she seemed like an incarnation of…well, something. I just wondered what religion she claimed.

“My uncle called himself a Holy Ghost preacher.  Some people call them Holiness. But, I don’t go in for all that.  People didn’t used to care what you called yourself as long as you belonged to God.  I think God don’t care what you are as long as you’re listening to Him.  And, I listen honey, Praise God!”  Tears seemed always just behind her soft eyes as she squeezed my hand.  “God walks beside me all the time, invisible.  Some people can’t see it.  But you see it.  I can tell because He walks with you, too.”

Barb came along and reminded me that I had to be back in town by 2:00 p.m. I had completely forgotten to check my watch.  Somehow it didn’t seem important anymore. I could have stayed all day and night talking to Edna. I realized I must be monopolizing her time with her family so I made a move to leave.  I hugged her and said I’d best be going. I felt so connected to Edna I wanted to be related to her. I wanted to be her.    

“Can I come back and see you some time?”  I said.  “I want to talk to you about signs.”

“Oh yes, honey.  They’s signs and you need to know’em.”  I got the feeling Edna knew things about me that I didn’t know myself, that there was a collective presence here today, in both of us.  “God tells us everything we need to know.  It’s up to us to listen,” Edna said.  “But, don’t wait too long about gettin’ back up here,” she squeezed my hand again, “Hear me?”

“How will I let you know I’m coming?” 

“You call my daughter, “Dee,” she’s the only one with a phone.  She lives out on the road.  She’ll tell you where to find me.”  It was the daughter who’d spent nights with her in the cave when she was little, now obviously a woman of the modern age.

“If you come back up here to see Mama, better plan on staying a couple of days,” Dee said.  “Call me and I’ll tell her you’re coming.”

They had a message system.  An old push-mower, the kind without the motor and with a box attached to the back for tools sits at the bottom of the hill beneath Edna’s cabin.  She puts a note in the toolbox if she needs something and the children put a note in there if they want her to come down to see them or need to get her a message when she’s not home.

The realization that she was truly off the grid was just forming in my mind.  I knew Barb had said she homesteaded her place, and home-schooled her children way before it was a fad, but she truly did live outside the lines.  I learned also that she birthed her children at home and they did not have social security numbers. 

“If I’m not home, I’ll leave red strings tied to the tree limbs so you can follow.  I might be at the cave.”  I have to admit it scared me a little bit, to think about trekking all over this mountain by myself, following red strings to find Edna, though I hoped I had it in me. 

I wanted to imagine I’d finally met my grandmother or maybe even several generations of grandmothers.  I couldn’t get enough of her.  I forgot about my at home to-do lists and expectations and remembered ancestral things I once knew but had let slip away.  I felt a sacred whisper flowing through my veins and I was grateful.

 It took thirty minutes walking a fast clip back to the place we’d abandoned the car and at least another thirty to drive back to town.  I didn’t talk but inhaled as much of Edna as I could. All I could think of was coming back. I wanted to tell everyone about this hidden treasure of times past as if I’d discovered her myself, but at the same time didn’t want anyone spoiling what she had accomplished, as if it were my job to protect her secrets.  Her simple lifestyle relying on intuition and signs to guide her daily decisions comes from being totally in touch with her mountain roots.  Roots I share but skills yet to be honed.

On our way out, people continued to trek back into the holler and Barb explained there would probably be 400 people by the end of the day.  My secret treasure wasn’t a secret.

“Dolly Parton has even been here,” Barb said.  “Edna’s grand-daughter breaks and trains all Dolly’s horses.”

“You’re kidding,” I said.  “I should write a story about her.”

“Everybody’s written about her.  There’s a whole chapter in a textbook at Appalachian State University.”  I felt like I had been spiritually blind and this was a day of vision.     

Edna is a monument, a mountain of faith.  She doesn’t have to leave her holler or travel the earth to become wise or make a difference.  She only has to listen to the earth as it speaks to her. I was only with her for a short while, but she saw me and I saw her and it made a difference. She is not a traveler, she is a destination.   

(This essay was written in 2006. Edna has been gone for several years now, but she is still remembered.)